Electric skateboard! I WFH and sold my 2019 Civic last year for almost as much as I paid in 2019. My wife and I share a 2020 CX-9. Having a second vehicle makes life easier so I'm looking at beaters this week. I really appreciate not having a car payment.

Then there is my sister who hates the idea of maintenance and gets a new lease every 3 years. At least she is very frugal outside of her car. And before anyone suggests I tried going over the costs and she didn't care.

2014 Mazda CX-5?

2017 Mazda CX

It was an engagement gift from my husband instead of a diamond ring. Can you get any more Boglehead than that?

I arguably drive the cheapest car in my company, cheaper than all my subordinates and cheaper than the intern.

We keep looking for a new car, electric of course, but we never pull the trigger. I’m spying the Hyundai Ionic 5. We’re waiting for it to qualify for tax credit.

It helped a lot when making the 3 moves once done since getting the car. Another 3 hatchback is one of the top (only) 4 considerations for my next vehicle, the others being the Mazda CX-5, Subaru Impreza, or Subaru Crosstrek.

I was pleasantly surprised when I was able to fit my skis inside the car when folding down one side of the rear seat.

In our family we drive 2008 Chevrolet Silverado truck with 278,000 miles, 1995 Mazda Protege with 605,000 miles and 2013 CX-5 with with 200,000 miles, all original motors. All bought brand new from dealerships. All vehicles in immaculate condition. Our lifelong mechanic tells us we can go another 500,000 miles on each vehicle. We baby our vehicles.

My Dad taught me growing up you take care of your vehicles they’ll take care of you. We’ve never been stranded on side of road. No major repairs for either vehicle. We just replaced the radiator for first time in Protege.

What we save in down payments and car payments, we invest and max out 401ks, IRAs and HSAs.

Mazda CX-5 premium plus trim.

2021 Mazda CX-9. Bought it new. I also have a 2010 Nissan at 44k miles that I bought used in 2011 (I know I know… dumb just out of college kid without a proper credit). I still have the Altima but rarely use it and planning to sell it soon.

2012 Mazda cx 9 with 134k, and a 2016 6 with 65k!

NAL.

Louisiana is a "community property" state. It means that, "....property owned by one spouse before marriage, and gifts and inheritances received during marriage, are treated as that spouse's separate property in the event of divorce.". Any property that is purchased or acquired during the marriage is considered owned by both partners. See: [PROBATE & SUCCESSION IN LOUISIANA](https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=005152534869167781137:cn0bxwuwrow&q=http://goea.louisiana.gov/assets/legalservicesfiles/probateandsuccession.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwixpqyNoq76AhXUE1kFHcJNAwoQFnoECAAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2zQwCzKR5uM6qhZxlr-RjR If a married person dies without a will, the surviving spouse inherits a usufruct over the deceased spouse's one-half of the community property until the surviving spouse's death or remarriage.

There are, of course, many local jurisdictional rules, exceptions and caveats to this.

Haha I was around for the IHG post cards. What a time. I snagged CX F back when it was 67.5k each way for AA too. All the way to Vietnam and back in F for 135k miles.

Of course, back then we were hype about a 50k sign up bonus and even the possibility of 3x on a spend category too, so just a different time.

Meh, I’m 6’3” and can’t sit in the passenger seat of our CX-5 because of my 3 year old’s car seat behind it. I’m sure it would be worse for someone even taller.

Buy a mazda CX of any kind. Trust me.

Yep. 25k is the price I always recommend new car purchases starting at. You can get Civics, CRV, Camrys, Rav 4, Mazda 3 hatchbacks and CX-5s at the lowest trim which are all vehicles that will last a 150k miles or more without any major repairs beyond the fundamental maintenance (oil changes, tire rotations, brake pad replacement, etc)

not just retailers; this is also particularly true in FSI. for instance, nowadays, even people living in remote areas have access to fresher, cx oriented banks/ insurances (potentially cheaper if limited to basic services), eroding shares to not attractive players

Just save up and buy your CX-50 cash. You make enough money (and presumably can invest enough outside of this car purchase) to where the opportunity cost of not having invested $40k is not going to really bite you.

Yes, I did consider CX-5, but found it a bit less spacious from inside compared to CX-50 at almost the same price point(turbo trim).

Get the Mazda but have you considered a CX-5? I got a 2019 CPO for $30k (non turbo). I wouldn’t do bmw unless new. Too many maint issues.

Mazda CX-5 or cx-50. My post specifically states I can purchase it outright, but questioned whether having a loan is overall good for your credit. The answers seem to suggest that it is good, which is what I wanted to verify since experian and others seem to consider “different kinds of credit/debt” to be a factor in your credit rating. The end goal here being to try to ensure that future loans (other car, houses) allow me to have a higher credit score and lower rates.

The Mazda CX-3 is a great alternative to the CRV. We have had both and for the money, will stay with the Mazda.

You do it if you have a deal for a new MSRP car you want. I did this with my GTI, traded it to Driveway.com for 75% of what I paid 5 years prior and then got my wife a CX-5 at MSRP.

Usually a motorcycle. Sometimes a Mazda CX-5. Personally, I don't understand car enthusiasts. I've driven $150K cars; I've driven $1K cars. The difference is negligible unless you're on a long road trip. I don't love motorcycles, but at least there's some excitement involved in knowing a small fender bender could kill youl.

I also can't tell one car from another if they're roughly the same shape and color, and often walk to the wrong car in parking lots.

This is kind of an aside, but as someone who grew up poor and was broke well into my 20’s, I too thought one day if I had a few million I’d just buy an index fund and live off the interest… but now well into my 30’s my career took off and I do have a couple million and I have a nyc apartment and two young kids that I don’t trust to nyc public schools, and I’m nowhere near retirement.

I used to live with 3 roommates and paid <$1000/month in rent in nyc and aimed to eat on less than $5/day. Now I pay $7k/month in rent for a 3 bedroom apartment, $6k/month in daycare costs, and $1k/month for car insurance/payment/parking in Manhattan (a 2021 mazda cx-30).

Just sharing some life experience from someone who was on one side and now on the other.

A few years back when I parked my Mazda CX-5 in my apt complex, it was towed and I was not informed. I assumed it was stolen and got really worried. Later, I emailed my apt complex and then they confirmed it was towed as it was not parked correctly. I was pissed that they did not email me till I reached out to them. Might want to double check before calling the cops.

You could’ve gotten a brand new Taos for less than $30k or even a Tiguan for around that much. Or a Mazda CX-5/50. Or a RAV4. Or…. Shit there are a TON of new SUVs you could’ve gotten for $30k or less. I’m actually gearing up to buy a brand new Tiguan for $30k.

I used to be against buying new cars… but I realized buying new is not always a bad deal IF you look at the lower end models that have good warranties. It’s the higher end models that aren’t good quality (like Jeep Grand Cherokees….) that really murder you on depreciation.

You bought a 20k mile Jeep for $10k MORE than a brand new AWD Tiguan would’ve cost you…

I bought a 2020 Mazda CX-5 last June and it cost total 29k. And I didn’t get the lowest package- I found the next tier because I wanted a sunroof.

Just because the average car is 50k doesn’t mean everyone needs to spend that much.

All it says is the tail is caved in. Not the age of the car, don’t know if there is frame damage.

I’m seeing 2019 CX-5’s listed in the 25k-30k range. Since it was a rear-ending, likely no engine damage, possible frame damage, possible transmission damage . Let’s say it’s a 2017 or newer CX-5. $20k will cover a hell of a lot of body work

Mazda CX-50 Meridian Edition makes the Toyo it’s bitch

You can buy plenty of nice used cars for 20k. Personally I recommend the CX-5 for a good all round car.

aint nobody selling but shorts cx

it is, not good as Product ownership but it is.

Take Zappos for e.g. they created whole business model around CX. Just keep in mind that management created CX strategy.

Every skill you have could be beneficial for your business.

I know digital products with awful UX, with great business plan and management, hitting $20M of revenue each year.

Doing business is the most complex thing I ever faced.

Mazda runs/ran a 0.9% APY promo.

Very similar to OP, I also purchased a new CX-5 over a year ago with about 12% down and a 60-month 0.9% rate. Monthly payment is just under $400.

Side note, craziest thing of all is despite the 13,000 miles now on it, its estimated resale value is about 10% higher than what we originally bought it for.

I pay ~$50/mo for my CX-5, not sure why he's paying so much

I love Mazdas, I drove my 2013 CX5 for almost 10 years and 185,000 miles and the only non maintenance issue was the heater core died. Only gave it up cause it was a manual transmission and needed a bigger family car. Upgraded last year when interest rates where low to a 2022 CX 9 carbon edition and absolutely love it. Will take it to 10 years and hopefully 200,000 with no issues as well. My wife’s next car will most likely be some sort of PHEV or EV Mazda is working on since I’m sold on their reliability and their quality is really moving up.

Looks like I need to double my income if I think I ever want a CX-5 or similar new car.

CX-5 is nice. Wife drives hers, a 2018, paid off in 4 years.

My 2012 mazda 3, drove it for 10 years up to 126,000 miles. Spent $250 on repairs aside from oil/tires/brakes. 30-40/m for 300/300/100 insurance. About 23 or 24 cents a mile when I traded in for a new 2022 mazda 3 preferred.

Do you the CX-5? I am currently in the market for a new car and that is what I have my eye on.

You think so? In June I bought a 2018 Mazda 3 sport (upgraded interior) with 2k miles for 22k. That's cheap and honestly a steal in this market. Once you get into the turbo trims it gets expensive for what it is but I guess that's trying to compete with the type Rs and whatnot.

I would like a Mazda offering in the supra class but I don't think the market wants that anymore. Mazda seems to be trying to perfect the ICE engine MPG relative to performance rather than following the electric trend (which I'm thankful for). They also seem to be pushing harder into crossovers with the shelfing of the 6 and the release of the cx-30/50 (I'm a sedan guy but those CX-50s are really bad ass).

I'm glad mx-5s are shedding the "girl car" reputation, they're beautiful little machines. Mazda is definitely one of the best on the road right now, my only complaint on the 3 is the infotainment system, very outdated.

I think (by no means a bet, but possibly a “target buy price” would be $7.cx) it will bleed down to $7 tomorrow before blasting off at power hour, and running next week. I got 100 shares at $16.68. Small L if no run tomorrow, but best believe them hands are diamond.

>You don't learn programming, how to run traditional or digital ads, land pr, true seo, martech, CX/UX, etc.

None of that should be taught at university though. Those skills are either fairly easy to learn on the job or are either very niche or not really marketings job anyway.

Exactly what it sounds like

You don't learn programming, how to run traditional or digital ads, land pr, true seo, martech, CX/UX, etc.

Marketing in college is very high level and you're not going to know shit without an internship or or projects

California is difficult. I manage (my company actually owns the homes) ~200 homes in Lancaster (🙄) and between section 8, drugs, and people not taking care of their homes…it’s proven to be a difficult market/area to manage.

I do not have a recommendation for a company in that area, but I stand by hiring local/small companies that are able to provide you and your home with attention.

Always ask how many people are on the maintenance team, CX team, and how many homes they manage.

Where is the property?

Ultimately I recommend avoiding nationwide companies and trying to use a local management company. The one I started with went from 700 to over 10,000 units in 2 years. All the while my dept (CX/MTC) only grew from 3 to 4.

Needless to say those original 700 units didn’t get the attention they deserved.

Where is the property?

Ultimately I recommend avoiding nationwide companies and trying to use a local management company. The one I started with went from 700 to over 10,000 units in 2 years. All the while my dept (CX/MTC) only grew from 3 to 4.

Needless to say those original 700 units didn’t get the attention they deserved.

Imagine trading more shares than your float in the 1 hour after opening on a WEDNESDAY Cx

And I can list my 2014 Forester for $40,000, but that doesn’t mean anyone will actually buy it at that price.

• 2012 CX-9 Touring AWD, 95,000 miles, $9,490 (Roanoke, VA)
• 2012 CX-9 Touring, 66,000 miles, $11,000 (Sacramento, CA)
• 2012 CX-9 Grand Touring AWD, 92,000 miles, $11,819 (Denver, CO)
• 2012 CX-9 Touring, 92,000 miles, $12,499 (Inglewood, CA)
• 2012 CX-9 Touring AWD, 82,000 miles, $12,885 (Falls Church, VA)

Along with the rust and repairs needed, I think it’s safe to say OP’s car isn’t worth $15-17,000.

Depending on the trim, he probably has $4k to 5k in equity on the vehicle.

The used car market is insane and a CX-9 is a desirable vehicle. I see a couple 2012 being sold locally to me for 15k and 17k both less than 100k miles.

Current car is Mazda CX-9 - rust damage that was covered up, trans union shaft damage, 70k miles. Plus more issues that I already spent 5k fixing

Cx

Don't ever pay a dealer up front fees for a lease, regardless of whether you have a trade in or not. Have them roll whatever they need to into the payment. Request a what's called "zero walk off" lease. As long as you have good credit and don't require a security deposit, there is no reason to bring your checkbook to a lease negotiation. Dealers don't like to do it typically, because it's one less lever they can pull to overcharge you for a car. The only reason dealers ask you for "$5000 down" is so they can get you into these "$399 per month!" lease deals. This is all marketing gibberish, and should be avoided entirely.

Here's some tips on leasing:

Leasing is just a financing method, except that you are just financing a fixed portion of the value of the car. In fact, there is no reason to even tell the dealer you are looking to lease a car until you get to the "how are you going to pay" part of the deal.

There are basically four things you need to worry about when leasing a car, and all should be looked at separately and one at a time:

1). The trade in value of your current car (if applicable)

2). The money factor (MF). This is the interest rate on a lease. The base MF is set by the leasing bank, though most dealers will try to charge you a a bit above the base MF. If you google the year and model car you are looking to lease (example: "Mazda CX-9 2022 Lease"), you should find a link to the Edmunds lease message board. People post the base money factor on those message boards for just about every model vehicle out there every month. Don't let them make your money factor any higher than what is reported there. Leasehackr is also a great resource site.

3). The residual percentage. This is set by the bank and is non-negotiable. Will typically be between 50-60%.

4). The price of the vehicle

Once you've negotiated the price of the vehicle, the value of the trade in, and assured you have the base money factor, have the dealer bring you the deal sheet. Pull up the lease calculator on leaseback.com, and input everything into the calculator yourself. Verify everything checks out.

What you are essentially "buying" is the difference between the negotiated price of a vehicle and the "residual", which is determined by that residual percentage. Importantly, the residual value is based on the MSRP of the vehicle you are buying, so if the MSRP is $50,000, and the residual percentage is 50%, that means the residual value is $25,000. This is why it's SO important to negotiate the sales price of the vehicle when leasing. If you even got 10% off the vehicle ($5,000 in this case), that lowers the amount you are financing by 20%, since you are now only financing $20,000 instead of $25,000 in this case.

Good luck!

Consider buying a Fumoto oil drain valve for your wife's cx... Makes it way easier to change oil without jacking the car

> I'm stuck between staying super frugal and getting some used/basic

Lol. I spent 30 years with no car and just a ~$1000 motorcycle, at first because it's all I could afford, and then because I was being actually frugal.

I consider my current 2016 CX-5 to be incredibly luxurious.

Congrats on that CX and GPS :)

Fuck that free cx stock

maybe next time call out the CX and GPS play before hand, a trade like that would change my life rn

Love to see some citation on that. My 2021 CX-5 gets more HP from premium but doesn’t require it.

L,ok.,k l,pplkk,cx

Mcxhmm,cx,b..,lx

Incorrect.

Split test and see what works better for your audience. Free gift with purchase is sometimes correct. Discounts are sometimes correct.

Try different things, measure the cx rates, and Lee optimizing

Mine’s a Jeep (factory setup, not lifted) and it was easy to get under. I may not have the patience to do the same with my wife’s lower-riding CX-5.

Hey why are u explaining my life right now hahaha! M27 and got a job as marketing specialist, but it’s business marketing Bi data Ti CRM CX UX, in direct contact with COO Every day and weekly with ceo… crazy thing. It’s a great experience, I think that it may be good for us Op! Let’s go :)

As a small business owner I've seen the largest increase of cxs requesting cancellations after purchase. Business is up yoy but it's already hitting us - margins are shrinking as rent and cost of everything has increases and we have not been able to pass on all the costs to our cx.

I bought a CX-5 specifically because it was reputed to be the quietest cabin available. Don't know if that's true because I don't have anything to compare it with. We've done many, many multi-day road trips and camping trips over the past 4 years with 2 adults and 2 medium-sized dogs, and it's been pretty great.

I'm really into the mazda as well, need to convince my wife. the higher end CX-5s look sharp and a good price. Thansk!

Can't really recommend as I am not familiar with RV or Rav 4.

I can share that we are a Mazda family and our previous 2010 Mazda3 has 215,000 miles and going strong. We now have a 2020 cx-30 (bought 2 months ago).

When we were shopping we found only 1 cx-30, no Mazda 3s, but a lot-full of CX-5s were there. This may mean better pricing if supply is higher, but not sure.

Normally would suggest going 2-3 years old to get lease returns that have allowed for early depreciation. With the used car market though, seems some used cars are only $2k less than the new one. So maybe new is best.

All the best on shopping.

Consider a subaru forester. Slightly less expensive than the CX-5 and CRV, standard all wheel drive, and better mileage

CX-5 no doubt. Lock it in

We love our Mazda CX-5.

If I were you I'd buy the car for 13k and keep it. The best feature of any car is not having a car payment. CX-5s are nice. Do you really need anything more? If spending 13k hurts to much then finance it. I envy anyone who leased a vehicle pre pandemic.

Some developers, but many CX and Ops

I’ve got a 2017 CX-5 and it’s been a great car. Yours was more expensive than mine (new trim lines have been added) and I usually recommend getting a moderate used car as a first car or delay buying new when you start working. That said, it’s a good reliable vehicle and not outside your financial ability. You’d lose more doing some sort of transaction at this point. Pay it off and enjoy it… when the payments are gone, set those payments aside in a “replacement car” fund and get something else in 8-10 years from now.

Cx

My 2019 Mazda CX-5 is pretty luxurious IMO, although we got the second highest trim which has leather seats, Bose speakers, and heated seats. I think CarPlay makes the most difference of anything. Previously I had to use an aux cable and a dongle to play music and then use my phone to switch songs. If I had my same car with fabric seats, no gps, and regular speakers I can’t say I would care to upgrade. In a few years we will probably get an EV crossover which will be fancier, but that’s because we want an EV eventually and just sold our second car so it’s the obvious choice when the need arises. I wouldn’t upgrade if I were you.

Listen, my truck is 4wd, and my wife's got a Subaru, so I don't have a leg to stand on, but:

I'd take a high clearance front when drive vehicle, over a low clearance awd vehicle. Especially for deep snow.

Cars these days are generally heavy enough to sink through, but modern aerodynamics has the bumper pushing snow.

The Nissan versa, Mazda 6, and Mitsubishi mirage all sport more than 6" of ground clearance

(6.8, 6.5, 6.3 respectively) even the legacy is lower at 5.9.

The Mazda CX-5 has 7.6" and can be had in fwd trim

JDPower, KBB, Consumer Reports, Carmax, Edmunds. I do a quick google search of reliability and read the first couple articles. then I also google the specific cars problems (e.g. 2016 Hyundai Tucson problems )

I’ve searching on Autotrader with the following parameters AWD/4WD Up to $27k — which is really pushing my budget honestly… Less than 90k miles (I really really hate the car buying process and would LOVE for my next car purchase to last me more than 6 years. I’ve had my current car 6 years.

I’ve looked into every single vehicle that comes up just about. Most of them are older jeeps (barf. Yes they’re sexy and trendy but the electric problems and the fact that they’re owned by Chrysler screams unreliable to me).

The vehicles that seem to meet my standards are around $27-$30k unfortunately in my area. Mazdas (Cx 5, Mazda 3) Hyundai Tucson/Santa Fe Subarus — I had one back in 2010 and I loved it but from what I hear ever since Subaru introduced more electric savvy things their reliability has sunk :( Older Lexus’ Toyota Camrys with AWD but again those start getting up into the high 20k’s

This. I work customer service for a boutique food store that flies in fresh goods daily. The costs are high. The complaints are always hilarious. Since I manage the CX team, the thing I try to teach the children is that there are GOOD customers and BAD customers. Good customers like what you do and how you do it. Bad customers show themselves, we can quietly resolve their issues, teach them why it happened (they mishandled the product usually) and then we try to move them out of our customer pool. Our internal motto is to MAKE IT RIGHT so we don't get loud Google reviews, though we have a few and I respond to them in a hilarious fashion.

I have a 2022 Cx-30 select in white

Look up forums for cars you want to buy. People usually discuss where they got cars without markups from.

You will likely have to order a car from the factory. Consider a less popular car that might be sitting on the dealer lot if you really need a car. If you were going for a top trim civic anyway, maybe consider an Accord or other mid-size cars. Mazda makes the 3 and CX-30. Less desirable but probably available vehicles also include the Ford Ecosport, as undesirable as it is. Casting a wider net will allow you wiggle room and give dealers less leverage to try and screw you.

Don’t settle for absolute price gouging like that. Obviously most sensible people aren’t paying 46K for a normal honda civic.

I do have to ask though. You’re sure you weren’t looking at a Civic Type R by some weird happenstance? That would be the absolute highest form of a Civic.

Same as you, Ithaca for their CX program. My understanding is that there is no requirement to take the course, but if I want to get a certification, it’s discounted. I was thinking that I could put the experience on my resume at minimum. If my company pays for the cert, great. If not, barely any effort and maybe I grow my network.

Yeah the general public really don't know the difference between an SUV and CUV. The auto industry also makes it more confusing by calling cars "Cross Over SUV".

I was just pointing out that manufacturing cars like RAV4, CRV, or Escape, CX-5 are really no different than passenger sedans. They are all unibody cars. So Ford stopping production of sedans and compacts are really not that big of a deal.

I tow a utility trailer with a CX-5, you don't need a massive pick em up truck for that.

Hammer in on online ordering and stop giving 20%-30% of revenue to delivery services is a quick cost effective solution. Full disclosure: I do work for a pos company but I also managed shops for 18 years and no way you’re located in my tiny region. Shoot me a message and I’ll give you the pros and cons of all of them a but short version? Keep the pos + oo native to one another, that $50-$100 a month will pay for itself many many times over. If I didn’t read the words “dedicated cx base. + near break even.” I would feel otherwise- but I think some tech here could make this profitable

I’m also hitting a wall after 10 years of marketing, and realised I’m interested in research. I looked around for jobs like that and found consulting roles. I understand they do have crazy hours, and is the agency role in the client-agency dynamic.

UX/UI/CX is interesting. In one of my ex companies, the CMO was in charge of CX as well. The CX team was responsible for charting the marketing roadmap.

I was just throwing it out there as an idea, but personally I’m interested in understanding the market, insights, and user personas within the non-profit sectors. My mentality is if I am going to still be contributing within a marketing/advertising space, I, at least, want to to benefit something of value, rather than someone’s pockets.

I think if this is something you wind up looking into, having experience within different marketing verticals should really be a benefit for you. On a similar note I know of a bunch of people moving from sales or marketing into the UX/UI/CX space.

I started a podcast show for businesses, named "Strategic Adopters." It's fresh, so for sure, cannot say it can be in the list with the best, but if people want sth down-to-earth with tips, cases and success stories, they may try it here. Each episode features a conversation with a tech or CX expert about the best approaches to using digital tools to connect better with customers. The first episode explores successful strategies using Goodle's Business Messages with guests from Google.

I started a podcast show for businesses, named "Strategic Adopters." It's fresh, so for sure, cannot say it can be in the list with the best, but if people want sth down-to-earth with tips, cases and success stories, they may try it here. Each episode features a conversation with a tech or CX expert about the best approaches to using digital tools to connect better with customers. The first episode explores successful strategies using Goodle's Business Messages with guests from Google.

A Really good list, thx!. I also started a podcast show for businesses, named "Strategic Adopters." Each episode features a conversation with a tech or CX expert about the best approaches to using digital tools to connect better with customers. The first episode explores successful strategies using Goodle's Business Messages with guests from Google. I just started, so for sure, cannot say it can be in the list with the best, but if people want sth down-to-earth with tips, cases and success stories, they may try it here

I started a podcast show, named "Strategic Adopters" – a show for businesses on how to turn digital tools into solutions for their companies. Each episode features a conversation with a tech or CX expert about the best approaches to using digital tools to connect better with customers. The first episode explores successful strategies using Goodle's Business Messages with guests from Google. So if you want sth down-to-earth with tips, cases and success stories, you may try it here

Lg CX i have kicks ass. Ps5 be going brazyyyy

Yeah I have the previous gen of the LG OLED (C9? CX? Whatever it is) but it’s a 77-78” or whatever the size is. Love it, the 120hz makes a huge difference.

market share is a funny thing.

I see way more mazda 6's on the road than I do CX-5's. And yet Mazda killed the 6 in 2022. So one of its most popular sedans is now no longer available. Market share tilts towards SUV's.

Nice enjoy i was considering the CX-5 too nice car! I see them in the neighborhood more and more.

Gotcha, that makes sense.

2017 Mazda CX-5 with 59k miles. ~$11k financed, $14k down. 4.04% rate with over 800 credit score.

It's essentially the same vehicle as the Rav4 and the CRV. Slightly less interior space with a more luxury interior, drives smooth as butter, and has a GDI engine on the non-hybrid models. It's also still a Japanese make vehicle so lives up to the longevity standards of the other brands. Only downside (imo) is that Mazda is pretty anti-touchscreen controls for safety (as a source of driver distraction), though I haven't looked at their newest models to see if that still holds true. I have an '18 CX-5 and it's been excellent these past 18 months.

Mazda CX-5, friend.

For the past decade I would estimate that my household average annual repair/maintenance cost for 2 cars is around $700. Mostly just oil changes ($70 & $40 every every quarter), a few new tires (one tire at $120 every 18 months or so), one battery every 3 years or so ($120), and one $1200 repair. Bought both cars new - a 2010 Dodge Challenger (now a 2021 Mazda CX-5) and 2012 Hyundai Sonata (beat to shit but it still runs great). You're spending a lot on repairs. I'd say its time to find another vehicle.

First off, 21 MPG from a CX-5? That's pretty low. Second, tolls won't change. Third, and this is where it's going to hurt, you're about to sell a car that runs fine to save $5/day (at current prices and mileage) in gas. 5 days a week, that's $100 a month. Is tax, insurance, and the financing on the hybrid less than that? What if gas is $4 a gallon? And then the hybrid needs gas (unless it has a >25mi charge range, then your commute is "free" or half that, if you charge at home) Realize you'd only be spending $2 bucks a day on gas, so you're saving... $60 a month. Oh.

Check why you're 10mpg under the average for that model, and 11 under my highway/city mixed commute.

Looking into potentially trading in my current car (2020 Mazda CX-5) to go with a plug-in hybrid option. KBB estimates my car is worth $25k atm, I owe $17k. Does it make sense to get rid of my car and look into another one with better gas mileage? I'm commuting about 25 miles a day to and from work and I'm really feeling gas prices and tolls adding up.

I love my car, but my job has plug-in charging stations and the fuel economy of a plug-in hybrid is 38 mpg! My current car gives me about 21 mpg. I know cars are astronomical right now so it wouldn't be a tomorrow purchase but just something I'm looking into for next year. My current car payment is around $300 with me overpaying $50/mo. Any advice or experience with plug-in hybrids is also appreciated! I don't want to do full electric.

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Invest in your website and CX first. Then email. Then affiliates. Then PPC. Then fixed-contract marketing.

Getting your website and CX right will de-risk against all future marketing spend that drives traffic into that site.

Your email list is cheap to reach and can’t be taken away. Capturing emails as you grow will mitigate against all future marketing spend.

Affiliates (including commission-based influencers) are only paid out if you make the sale, which is very low risk. Maximising this will mitigate risk against all other marketing spends.

PPC can’t guarantee an ROI before you spend the money, but spend can be increased or reduced quickly and incrementally. Setting a budget to spend money on PPC in the future is fine because if it stops working you can always pull back. Having a CPA target only puts your revenue at risk, not your profit margin.

Finally, we’re playing at the big spenders table: fixed-spend contracts (mailers, outdoor, influencers on fixed fees). Often these run into 10s of thousands of dollars per month. They can pay off big, but often they don’t, so it’s a total gamble. Doing everything listed above will de-risk against this, so do those first and then you’ll be ready to play here.