Kellogg Company
K67.16
Wow that’s great! I really just want ideally $10k to pay back $3k medical bills and $3k car. 😅 not looking for a payday just would love to come out even!
Didn’t everyone tell him in Friday to take his $100k gain and he said he was going to hold?
Beast of an account nice I love it. I'm also down over 100k currently but can't mention on what here ( market cap) Just another Monday oh well..
We are just over a decade into our journey and have just under 20 years left before chubby FIRE (mid 30s planning to retire with 3.5M in our mid 50s). We have the house, cars, family size, education level that we’d like to attain, so no additional goals there…
So at this point we’re just truly enjoying life together! We have built in a large travel budget annually (20-30K) and spread trips out throughout the year. Some are a week or longer, other times it’s long weekend getaways etc… it’s so fun having multiple vacations to look forward to each year and plan them out as a family. We schedule events like concerts and professional sports events throughout the year as well. We also have a few hobbies in common that take up time on the weekends. When we don’t have plans we may indulge in shopping and good dining. My husband and I spend a lot of time going on dates and have so much fun together. Between all of that, both of us working full time, managing the household and keeping up with our daughter’s school and activity schedule… it’s a very full life in my opinion. I don’t know that I would even classify it as boring! Time literally flies by.
Any money produced by a free market is fine as long as the government doesn't take over one currency and floods the economy with it. Can even be centralized if it's subject to market mechanism. People would naturally use a currency whose value remains steady over time, and for that reason, currency producers would be incentivized to make their product reliable.
Instead, the value of each unit of US dollar dropped by about 90% since 1970 and people are still asking their government to control it. Mind boggling. Imagine hiring a wealth manager, giving him $100K and after 50 years, he tells you that you have only $10K left. Wouldn't it be ground for absolute and immediate termination?
Throw 7k of your 21k at the credit card debt
shocked i even got anything on account of not filing last year as 1099, however i lost over 260k so i imagine that's why i got some scraps back lol about 2200
100k is breakeven for serfdom
Hey Mitch, did you hear about the employee retention credit yet?
I don't know how many employees you guys have, but you can apply for this when you have 5+ employees.
You can get up to $26k per employee, so this could help you out a bit in my opinion.
Losing 295k really would suck.
If u make less than 100k a year u already a slave
My wife and I bought a 2k Sq foot townhouse with great rental opportunity, in a good area of upstate NY in 2015 with a mid 3's rate. I don't want to sound callous but I couldn't give less of a fuck about mortgage rates now. Jack this shit up, I'm tired of high egg prices.
Imagine not cashing out last week. Good fucking job losing 300k out of greed
I think the majority of people on here are partnered. I forget what the demographic survey said last year, but that doesn’t always reflect the people that lurk vs the people that post a lot.
What feels like the vast majority of brag posts about “-1000 to 500k in 4 years!” Have a line about “year 1 - 70k income, year 2 - my income went to 140k and my spouse’s adds another 90k to make 230k”
Taking a loan from your 401k is also a bad idea.
This might help: https://www.investopedia.com/articles/retirement/08/borrow-from-401k-loan.asp
Yet to file mine, expecting about 27-30K back
295k is amateur hour....sue for 12 million, and quickly settle for only 4 million.
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Hey /u/audyntarek, positions or ban. Reply to this with a screenshot of your entry/exit. >TL;DR: - UVIX is a leveraged ETN that tracks the performance of the S&P 500 VIX Short-Term Futures Index.
It applies to the dividends and capital gains distributions on an annual basis too. So e.g. $50k of VOO would grow tax free in an UGMA until it's sold (at current dividend yields anyways) whereas you'd have to pay taxes on the dividends every year if you hold the shares in your name.
You can't sue them for that. Forget about that $300K. That's a hell of an instant loss. You would have been better off buying a piece of real estate holding it for a few months and reselling it.
If you're looking for a guaranteed locked in interest rate consider CD's. Fidelity allows you to choose from hundreds of domestic CDs. They and other brokerages allow you to build a CD ladder as well.
The below comments point out a lot of the nuances of Bonds and bond funds but TL;DR they are complicated and the more involved the product you are buying the more there is to keep in mind.
My two cents:
-
If you are planning to hold for a medium to long period - 3+ years bonds can be a good option for you since you can find bonds that mature then and hold until maturity and recover your FV. The two major decisions here are 1) what is the maturity rate I'm seeking and 2) what bond will I buy? If you are more risk averse then buy a higher rated bond.
-
If you want to bet that interest rates are going to fall in the future (and therefore bond values will rise) then you then you can also purchase individual company bonds and as interest rates are cut then values of bonds will rise and if you then sell the bond you will reap a profit.
-
If you have a 401k and are using a target date fund (default) you already have some exposure to bonds so don't feel like you NEED to own bonds for the sake of diversification
-
CDs and CD ladders are a great option if you are looking for a locked in guaranteed return
-
If you are looking to diversify your assets for the sake of having a more diverse portfolio then you could consider bond funds (VCT, VCIT, VCLT). As others have pointed out the relationship between the federal funds rate and the value of these funds isn't as straightforward as when you purchase an individual bond but you get the benefit of a diverse bond portfolio.
​
One other factor to keep in mind - which I'm assuming most of this thread is fully aware of- is the risk-return tradeoff theory. The theory states that investors need to be compensated for holding riskier assets with a higher return on those assets. Therefore, in the LR stocks will have a higher return than bonds.
>It just seems like the net gain of leaving money in the market does not justify having a loan at 8%. Does this seem like a good idea?
Taking out a 401k loan is not simply exchanging invested money for paying off the loan. First, the 401k loan will likely have a high interest rate itself. E.g., Fidelity charges prime + 1%, and the prime rate alone is 8%. So, would you actually save anything?
Second, yes, if you pay it back, it's only the interest that is 'double taxed'. That's still bad though, so why do it?!
Lastly doing this via 401k loan just puts a Sword of Damocles over your head: if you don't pay it back on time, that becomes a taxable (and penalized) distribution to you, so you owe income taxes plus a 10% penalty.
Good luck OP. Took me days of screenshots to get like $40 dollars of fees Fidelity charged me as a commission for an otc stock. Nowhere when I bought did they list the commission. Even took screenshots of their app saying $0 dollar commission and the total cost didn’t include any commission but customer service spent hours trying to get out of giving me back my $40. I’m sure trying to claw back 295k out of a broker without customer service number will be fun.
“First republic will be leaving the S&P 500”
Wait you mean ive been laughing at the FRC regards when ive been bagholding this shit in my 401k and IRA the whole time?!?!?!
FUCK
Exactly he was up $75k and that wasn’t enough. Greed won.
Inflation, rate hikes and bank failures are going to spur a 5k spy speed run.
I would give your financial situation 4/10. I think you're living a modest lean lifestyle completing activities that you're enjoying on a daily basis. You've made a conscious choice to sacrifice your income potential for a work life balance. Congrats on saving as much as you have.
That said, this lifestyle sounds great when you're 25-45, especially when you're single, but doesnt leave much room if things go south as you head towards your 50-60s when earnings power diminishes. Family obligations does not sound like they will be an issue but health will certainly be.
If you can live on 40k a year now, odds favor you'll need at least 80-90k for the same lifestyle in 15 years when you retire. Official inflation rates are 2-3% but most people feel its closer to 4-6%. So if your goal is 1mm nest egg, you'll need to earn 8% on it or have a larger nest egg.
Lost about 10k on xela and bbig.... Not as much as some people but still stings.
I don't mind the 1k approach if you have $0 and need to get started but I hate Dave's recommendation to spend down an otherwise meager emergency fund.
The Money Guy's recommendation sounds more reasonable in this circumstance.
A couple of things. First "40 houses in Charlotte" means nothing. I love in the Midwest and you can find housing prices in that range but there's always a catch. Do you want to put $200k into it to refurbish it? Maybe you want to live in the metro but be an hour away from the actual city? Or perhaps you're willing to be in a bad school district? I get that "home ownership is home ownership" but acting like all houses are created equal is folly.
And besides the fact that Amazon provides zero job security and will work you to death with shitty benefits, just because you qualify for a certain mortgage doesn't mean you should get that max mortgage. That isn't always fiscally responsible and is a good way to make you housepoor.
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lAdDeR aTtAcK 🤡
They literally told u you will be in a tough spot.
Question is why u didn’t close it when you could and collect your $75,000?????
The answer is greed, you got greedy and lost it all.
Should have taken $75k and enjoyed it.
This is true on a smaller scale and is more “ethical” unfortunately I lost my ethics is property management after working for invitation homes for 5 years. But in general I agree if a tenet has paid over 100k to live in a house for 3 years and I don’t have 3 turns(that cost me money) on that same property in that time I’m a little bit more forgiving of paint and carpet and really only come after the tenants for broke cabinets windows and appliances at that point
Do you have a 401k
So really what you have here is an improved front-end to deploy to a k8s cluster?
This improvement also relies on learning what is essentially a new domain-specific language that is human-readable adjacent to ensure that the robot does not give back an invalid response, will not cause a vulnerability, and will not cost you hundreds of dollars per hour.
Relevant XKCD: https://xkcd.com/1205/
Any good resources compiled together in 1 spot for a “normal” person to educate them on finance, investing, true cost of things. The basics of compounding.
New gf is
- paying 1.5% expense mutual funds, 1% financial advisor or 2.5% net expense fees…
- mutual funds are like 30% bonds and ~5% cumulative return in 5yr returns instead of 50% sp500,
- lots of money in cash at 1% yield,
- wants to pay off 1.8% car loans,
- no consideration of future kids/weddings in financial plan,
- doesn’t take advantage of essentially risk free money at work….
- and talks of retiring early seriously in 10yrs saving just 2k a month and ~200k total saves…. Delusional
Oh… all of this while like mentioned under guidance is a “financial advisor”. Who happens to be a decade long friend.
Remember I’m up against this decade long “friend” who doesn’t want to share news that shatters dreams and keeps the peace while at same time collecting fees at work.
I’m exceptionally analytical and know finance like back of my hand, but for 98% of people even if they make good money want to be told good things and criticism/ideas is an attack on their character and in this case their “friend”. They also don’t want to spend time thinking about it which is why they get an advisor….
Resource? Compiled stuff so I don’t have to make a bunch of line charts showing compound multiplication and things to think about ?
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Ngl that FRC put guy is fucking stupid. Let me give you guys a history lesson:
First he bought puts on FRC, didn’t go well.
Double down
Triple down
(My favorite part) Didn’t know how to upload an image to Reddit so he had to ask Reddit instead of good
Made 200k but was so greedy even after Reddit told him to sell that he kept it (keep in mind he’s using Robinhood, the last broker I would want to deal with during bankruptcy)
FRC is bailed out, FDIC approves JPMorgan takeover of FRC and all future expiring options of FRC deemed worthless (as stated in the option agreement)
He’s out all his money and wants to sue… Robinhood lol
Classic WSB story in the making
I lost 400k and i was crying so its def an option
If it was as simple as that all OP would need is term, a $250k plan is way cheaper. But WL plans are magical savings accounts that pay for themselves according to their proponents. That savings component is much less value than shoving the cash in a pillowcase would have been , and even less compared to most other forms of investing/saving.
I’m launching a private dog park bar this year, you can DM me if you want to know more. I raised $350k and leased a 104,000 sq ft facility that we are currently renovating. Hoping to open this summer.
So I'm using this calculator: https://www.omnicalculator.com/finance/bond-price
Basically, a $355k loan (the $270k plus the $85k loan as well) with a 4% rate, 15 years to maturity, with a "yield to maturity" of 9% (assuming what interest rates a new loan for this property would be charged) gives a current value of this $355k debt as $209,000.
If we change the YTM to 7% (ie, representing that new similar loans would get a rate of 7%) the market value of the debt is $256k.
And just so you know the calculator isn't cheating somehow, if you change the yield-to-maturity rate down to 4%, it says the market value of this $355k debt is $355k.
So yeah, to debt markets this is a discount of $100k to $150k.
A new-build laundromat would cost roughly $500-$600K. With $40K you're looking at a very old, extremely down market store. But that's okay! Everybody has to start somewhere.
I suggest doing what you can to learn about fixing machines, plumbing, and the HVAC systems for venting the dryers.
You will have to deal with the city to make sure your sewage system is working correctly. You will have to deal with the AQMD to make sure your ventilation is working correctly. You will need a city business license, and a fire department permit. You will need to pay sales taxes to the state. You will also be liable for unsecured property taxes (taxes on the equipment that the business owns - this is different from secured (real) property taxes).
Most laundromats are going coinless, which reduces the need to be on-site all day, but you will still need one or two employees.
That's off the top of my head. You will want to work with a CPA to get yourself structured correctly. And look for a broker who helps with buying/selling businesses to find the right seller for your circumstances. Maybe you will find a seller who will help finance the purchase. Maybe you will find a business that has been abandoned and the real property owner is looking for someone to take it over.
Good luck!
My mom was/is one of these people. Luckily, she didn’t have a lot in her safe (about 5k) but someone broke into her home and stole the entire safe. They had to know about it too because it was hidden. However my mom is a canary and tells people (most of them strangers) EVERYTHING about her life (inappropriately so).
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I really hope you’d be getting considerably more than $750/mo on a 800k+ property.
I’d expect a return of $750/mo on a 100-150k investment property.
I have a IRA in acorns i have 2k i have invested.
Holy moly that's a lot of crypto. Also your total investments are in the 120-150 range and you're going to spend a million on a house? What do you need 300k cash for?
Everyone in this sub and their kids and wives boyfriends are short on NVDA, myself included. Today‘s move was inevitable. Lost 40k already and will hold until the last of you idiots will loose everything too
More people holding puts -> higher we go
Go back 25 years and run your plan against the real data..
500k on the SP500 on May1 1st, 1998 would have the SP500 at around 1050. Today it's at 4100.
Your 500K would have turned into 2M today.
There were not many opportunities to buy below 1050 after May 1st, and waiting would have cost you growth and dividends..
In this exact case, going all in on day 1 was very close to optimal, without the benefit of hindsight.
I’m utterly dumbfounded. How? I’m 25 and at -60k (business debt from a failed venture) -160k NW if you count my student loans too
Happy for ya, but man, that’s insane
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What does "Welp" mean? The policy is worth $250k; it's only worth $10k, if you cash it in. And why would you plan to do that, if you're buying WL insurance?
Single stocks are riskier than broad market. I’d consider making a move with the $50k in your employer’s stocks. Especially with rates where they are and your wanting to prepare for a down payment.
The interest-free slippery slope is one to ensure you avoid. While it’s a free loan it may incentivize you to spend money you wouldn’t otherwise.
You’re doing well even just staying the course. A Roth is great to consider and is on your radar as noted.
Not intimately familiar with commercial real estate rates right now, but a $270k loan at 15 years with 3.99% would be about $1995/mo. Even at 10% interest for that same amount and terms, it comes out to about $1000/mo more. I wouldn't say that's worth $100k-$150k to me, but maybe someone else would value that higher. I don't know rates and terms on the remaining loan w/ $87k balance, but OP doesn't seem too concerned with it. I would use the appraised value of real estate less balance on mortgage and other loan to determine equity in building. Then reduce by 50% to account for selling half ownership to buyer.
If OP wants to present a higher value and buyer wants to negotiate down, then that's his call.
So solo 401K up to 20% of my net earnings
and
up to $6500 into IRA?
My ex-US position in my 401k is overweight to account for my external positions, although it is still a tad lighter than the recommended 20% this year due to my individual stock positions. I’ll rectify this when I rebalance at the end of the year.
Need some genuine suggestions . I have 5000 $nio avg $8.57 . Should I sell or hold ? At 6.5k loss rn
I'm 100% certain my financial planner is just "raking in fees". I want to move to something like Vanguard where I can kind of "set it and forget it" to at least some extent. Wife and I both have Traditional (rollover) IRA and ROTH IRA with this agent. Roughly $200k in total between the 4 accounts.
​
Literally don't even know how to start this process or what to expect. I've always just "Trust what the corporate guy says". Today looking over my account (quarterly) I found that we have lost all of our gains for the last while, but they certainly got their fees. I get it, times are "volatile", but c'mon...
That’s fine. Dave Ramsey recommends $1k. The Money Guy recommends holding whatever your highest deductible is in case of emergency. All semantics but the general plays are the same
You say your salary is 84K; I’m going to guess your monthly take home pay is around $4500?
If your only expenses total $2000 that gives you over $2000 each month to throw at the debt. I wouldn’t try to get fancy with balance transfers because you can clean up the high interest debt in under 2 months. Then pay off credit card 3 before October to be completely free from credit card debt.
Here’s the plan of attack I’d use:
1-pay off CC1 and CC4 with this month’s pay
2-pay off CC2 with whatever is left from this month’s pay and part of next month’s
3-start paying down CC3 which should only take you another 2 months or so
All this hinges on 2 things. That your take home pay is about $4500 AND that you’re really only spending $2000 on expenses each month.
To be fair...i made and lost 160k and i lol'd...because crying and suicide were not an option.
Car Crash Finance Update:
Context: Months ago, my husband was rear-ended while stopped at an intersection by a car going 35 MPH. Husband went through 3 months of PT on his neck and right hand which were damaged in the accident.
Update: After $3k in medical bills, getting a disability attorney who has sent over multiple offers, etc., the current standing offer from the insurance company is only $2,800 and has in fact gone DOWN $5k (but the disability attorney would get 1/3 of the $2800 so it's really like $1950sih)!
This is a terrible offer because we are $7k down from buying a car since the adjustor really under-valued husban'ds car given the current used car market, and with only 66% of $2,800, we'd still need to pay $3k of medical bills!
I really thought getting a disability attorney was supposed to make sure we wouldn't get fully screwed over by the insurance company, but I guess that isn't the case! We can definitely weather this financially, but it's really too bad since we will lose a lot of money.
Disability Attorney says they will try one more time to get more money but we may need to accept this new offer and that "the insurance company has new tricks now."
Sold 200 @$2/contract. Got 40k in premiums.
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Update. I’m rate locked in at 4.99 offerpads taking my house I’m getting 60k in profit. No points the point charge shows 4K b it that’s not enough to cover 1% of 570k so idk but still 4.99 locked. I’m gonna be outta my current house in 7 days thanks to offerpad and closer to my parents. 8min on 3.5 acres vs 55min and 1/4 acre. No HOA no CDD im so ready to moveeeeee. If anyone wants I’ll send them my lenders information he’s a wholesale lender. All paperwork in signed I’m locked at 4.99 until the 30th. But after I place an offer I’m locked for 60 days
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Do you do a monthly budget? 30k at 240k is hardly a hair off your chin.
They should update the FDIC 250k limit to unlimited tho
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I'd say don't beat yourself over losing the money. Most of the people who start prior with 0 experience mostly luck out. The ones who actually succeed have firstly multiple failed businesses before they figure out how to make one work. I'd suggest for the next $200k before starting another business try to find a successful mentor and pay for 1on1 coachings/bootcamps that way I think you'll actually learn what you lacked and how to tackle future opportunities.
Thanks for sharing that. That's a good point. I definitely don't see how the American consumer can sustain current levels of consumption for very long. From a lay person's perspective, I drive around in a car with a KBB value for about $17k and see a wild amount of high-end trim trucks and SUVs (with sticker prices pushing 6 figures) every day in my commute.
just don't see how that is reasonable when the average person simply doesn't make that much money.
Unless you're overweight ex-US in the 401K, probably not, as you'll be watering that down further and further with every non-401K contribution you make.
+0.20% with 300K volume on SPY. LMFAO
Not enough assets in what sense? Loans at FRC far exceeded deposits which was the whole problem. How is $300k in deposits from X (FRC) not equal to $300k deposits at Y (JPM). I guess how has the FDIC lost a penny (before the $10 billion) on this deal yet? My understanding is losses could come as they made guarantees to JP Morgan, but that’s not a certainty they will have to pay it out. At that point the FDIC fund would probably need payments from all banks that are insured to help pay for that guaranty.
Trade you SEO services for commission only on sales driven from SEO? :) prob take 8-10k investment from me upfront and then 4-6 months before I see any kind of return. Win win for both of us lol
Already doing this with my 401k, so I figured my brokerage/Roth IRA is fine without it
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I guess I am over-saved with respect to my age, (130k in retirement accounts @24), so maybe allocating 1-2k/year to toy with moonshots would be fun. Part of me is still kicking myself for buying the 2020 dip with my brokerage though since it would be nice for the dividends to be tax advantaged (totally a first world problem haha)
I can take this case and represent you for a small fee of $294k.
My Qualification: 3 year member of WSB. Bought BBBY at the peak and sold at 25% loss.
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Send me $11k so I can send you $13k
Last week I returned from a week long vacation to Alabama and surrounding states as I had a college reunion and spring football game to attend. Flying into Birmingham (which is actually a really nice airport terminal, probably one of the best I've seen for an airport of its size), I went to Columbus, Georgia to see the National Infantry Museum at Fort Benning (soon to be Fort Moore), then drove to Birmingham and Tuscaloosa, then drove to Orange Beach, Alabama (Pensacola area) for a couple days at a beachfront hotel before returning to Birmingham to fly home.
An interesting part of this trip was seeing how much more expensive prices have gotten in what was originally a LCOL area. Restaurant prices in Columbus were much lower than those in Birmingham, Tuscaloosa, and the Gulf, which were around what I am paying outside of Seattle. $16 plus tax and tips for a burger and fries at a moderate place in Alabama is oddly high.
If you liked the National Museum of the United States Air Force outside of Dayton, Ohio or the Smithsonian museums, the National Infantry Museum is a must see for anyone remotely interested in military history. I went the day before a basic training graduation (which happens in the back of the museum) and pretty much had the place to myself.
I've heard the Gulf Coast being called the Redneck Riviera and am not sure if it deserves that nickname, though it was interesting to see a Walmart, Dollar General, and two Waffle Houses right across the street from the beach. I somehow got an off season rate and paid $175 per night for a great room in Orange Beach with a full beach view, $125 per night if I had chosen a room with little to no view. 10/10 amazing beach with no rocks and tons of white sand.
Overall though, it still holds that someone with a professional job can still have an extremely high standard of living in Alabama because professional wages aren't always that much lower compared to HCOL areas, but other wages are, plus the state isn't land constrained. My hotel in the Birmingham area was in Hoover near the Costco and it felt like I was in a very clean, very high income, part of any other state.
It's also worth noting that for retirees with a pension and minimal 401k or IRA balances, Alabama is often by far the lowest tax state because it doesn't tax pension or Social Security income and has extremely low property taxes, plus relatively low taxes on things other than merchandise or groceries.
A mortgage where I live would be $7-8k with a 20% down payment where the median home price is $996,000. It’s past the point of unsustainable.
in his other thread. he could have bailed with 70k profit. now looking at -200k lol
but he said it's worth the headache
Corn looking to break 28k
There was K&T in the basement. I had a local electrician come out and redo the basement wiring to update when he was wiring the new furnace. Old furnace was an oil based furnace that was converted to natural gas and then developed a crack that was leaking carbon monoxide. Total cost to replace in 2020 was like 4k since I didn't get a fancy furnace.
My wife's company matches about 4-5%, used to be 6%. She maxes it out, 20-23k a year.
I think individuals have the option of mixing and matching to their preference. There is no right answer here. Some people like more control/options so they only contribute to company match and manage the rest on their own. Some people want the convenience of set it and forget it all in one place.
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70K per year not semester
I empathize with your situation and can understand how challenging it can be. However, I have been in similar situations in the past and was able to overcome them by staying positive and focusing on areas where I had control and could build. For instance, one of my clients in the UK went into administration without paying $70K, but I persevered and continued running my agency business.
That being said, given your position in the mattress industry, I would suggest a slightly different approach. I had a premium mattress client in the USA who faced a similar situation, and he was able to recover his losses by selling the stock through hotel chains. Unfortunately, the emergence of mattresses in a box has made the industry highly competitive, making it difficult to sustain a business. Even my client, who had over 25 years of experience in the foam industry, faced challenges in keeping the business afloat.
More like a million, you can't make someone dumb listen. he thuoght he'd be up 200k now he might be short on JPM stock lol.
Just down 40k on the day on the day.
Was it perhaps listed way too low?
If its one of the hottest markets then $325k seems cheap for a SFH.
> I read that my car is going to lose over 50% of its value once it hits 100k miles - I’m at 99k now.
It's not like your car is worth $15,000 at 99,000 miles and suddenly falls to $7,500 at 101,000.
You're already in debt. Cars depreciate. Fortunately, the depreciation is non-linear - the longer you have your car, the less value it loses per mile driven.
Keep driving, pay it off.
Holding cash for 2 years is recommended for the reason you cited. Another recommendation is to wait 2-3 years after retirement to start getting SS checks.
My SIL was able to wait 2 years and started receiving only at age 70. She gets 4K, and with her house paid off , this is enough for monthly expenses. Her 401K is mostly for travel
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It looks like ChatGPT has amnesia because it repeated the same idea in more than one bullet point.
Silent partner suggests that your friend is buying a security. You'll need to make sure that you're not running afoul of any securities laws.
You don't mention whether the $90k is before or after debt service.
It's probably better to give you a management fee off the top rather than have one percentage for equity in the business and another percentage for profits. There are other questions that would come up like: what about losses, allocation of depreciation, etc. It makes things a lot more complicated.
If the triplex is owned by you two personally and not by the business itself, how is the business itself structured? Does the business itself have a long term lease on the property? Does that come out of the $90k figure? If you're making a distinction between the business itself and you two personally, why doesn't it own the property?
We don't work together and she's a business owner and I have a corporate 401k. We will get to that point however, but there are some rules around having one and then having to offer it to employees. I'm pretty sure she has an IRA of some sort. We have everything set up properly.
We used to have an HSA but I have amazing health care crossing us and our child. We still have funds in the HSA but pretty much every tax advantaged account is maxed