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Altria Group, Inc.

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Without knowing your overall budget it's hard to say. While 15% is a general rule of thumb for retirement savings, it'll likely keep you working to retirement unless you retire pretty light (as in much lower income than you make now)...you could up that to retire earlier. If that's not of interest to you, and the rest of your budget leaves you with a few thousand each month, how you spend it is purely up to you.

Do you want to spend more time and energy cooking for yourself but saving money? Then do that. Does that sound like a drag? Then spend more money to have someone else prepare food for you (eating out, pre-made meals, etc).

Ultimately once your needs are met and you're meeting at least minimum savings advice, how you spend the leftover money is purely up to your goals and personal preference. I tend to meal prep on a weekly basis and occasionally eat out, which costs me around $300/mo in food alone (total grocer bill is a little higher but that includes household goods like soaps, shampoos, cleaning products, etc). If I made enough money that a few hundred extra per month didn't matter, I'd probably eat out more and save myself some time.

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Definitely naked. Leg into naked short strangles on /ES is my MO. +170k this year. But that’s just me.

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My wife and i just each opened a new brokerage account and deposited $50 to get the Fidelity 100 bonus we had never utilized before. So there’s two. She had an existing one to deposit money to get it to settle before doing Backdoor Roth IRA (if you wait a few days so it is “available to withdraw” in the brokerage account, you can swipe it through Trad Ira to Roth IRA in 10 seconds and have no Pennies of interest in the Trad later on). I have our long term (retirement) account. The one I just opened for the bonus is now our “emergency fund” instead of our Capital One Savings - 2.8+% in SPRXX vs HYSA, and with the option to buy t bills if I am feeling spicy.

I would open a brokerage account for another designated goal if I wanted at some point. I carry like 12 capital one accounts for buckets - annual expense bucket that gets $350/Mo, Disney 2023, Aruba 2024, Hobby Money, etc all are their own account.

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I can not fathom what i would spend $140k(before tax) on a year. Our mortgage/property tax is about 850/mo. Insurance another 250 for home/auto. We don't go out to eat much, and groceries are usually 500/mo. I feel like i would waste a lot of money on things I don't need. Like a lot more home automation stuff. So fun...

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Well, when we first bought our house, we were making less. That was about... 9years ago? Sure we make more now. But that's been a recent change, less than two years. Our children are older than 10. We live outside Worcester. Our mortgage is about 850/mo. Their rent is 500. Median family income for MA is $84k. As I recall, MA is among the highest median income in the US. So, again, the 75k their making is a comfortable amount in most places in the US.

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But a 3 point rise in interest rates means your mo they payment is probably more than it was at the previous price

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Current:

CC: 50k @ 26% = $1083 interest/mo

Mort: 40k @ 3.8% = $127 interest/mo

total = $1210 interest / mo

HELOC plan:

Mort: 40k @ 3.8% = 127

HELOC: 50k @ 11% = $458

total = $585 -> $127 over the course of maybe 2-5 years?

Refi plan:

Mort: 90k @ 7% = $525

Mort: 40k @ 7% = $233

interest = $525 -> $233 over the course of 2-5 years

conclusion

I'm on board with the HELOC plan -- it doesn't save as much money up front, but it'd be a shame to waste your 3.8% mortgage especially in this current environment.

You just have to make sure

  1. the HELOC doesn't have too much fees and stuff to start (if they charged like 5% orig fee, then the extra $2500 on the loan might not be worth it)

  2. You have a realistic plan to pay off the loans

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It is hard. You've got an accurate picture of your spend- which is the first step! If you want to change, just think about why.

We have 2 adults, a 5yo, and a 7yo. We eat out/carry out, generally, about 1x week, maybe 2 times. That 1 time is usually a wknd night and usually spend maybe $70-90. I almost always carry out bc alcohol is way cheaper. My husband takes his lunch, and I WFH so I eat here. I will say, sometimes, we don't decline activities and sometimes we eat out all weeked...but that's an exception. Let's call it $300/mo. I'm working on decreasing this to $200/mo because I would rather use the money towards eating out on vacation. My husband used to take his lunch but he was spending $200/mo doing that...and he decided he wasn't eating all that well and it was a waste of money. If some of that spend is on lunches for work, you can consider what you truly value about it.

My kids eat lunch at school 2x per week, so about $15/week between the two of them.

For food groceries, I spend right about $150-200 wk. I don't really budget, buy whatever, we are meat and generally organic veg eaters with plenty of soda. We cook at least 3 times a week and we do leftovers and 3 lunches for each kid X week.

For paper products, snacks, cleaning products and misc poor decision making at Amazon and Target, maybe another $250/mo.

Just to give you a sense for someone else.

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Mo way it's true for working people.

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Read that Ford is raising the price of their Lightning by $5k after the $8500 hike 2 months ago or whatever.

I'm getting a few windows replaced for $5k

people in my town are getting quoted 20k for AC

My HOA is going up $100/mo because our HOA insurance doubled in cost, and some people are already behind on payments.

I'm in a good place in life but it looks really bleak for the future. Everyone is going to be so much poorer, and that's before losing their parents' 100k inheritance.

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Ok gotcha.

Currently the house I’m in required a total renovation so I’m in it for around $120k (DP and rehab). At market rent it looks like I’d cash flow around $700/mo (analysis includes cap ex and maintenance) at market rent.

Not sure what my next move will be as I can’t cash out refi (locked in at 2.75).

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I don't agree with everything /u/sentientshadeofgreen is saying, and I think they are laying it on pretty thick. But as far as peddling engineer's work as his [Musk's] own, isn't that basically the MO of SpaceX and Tesla? My understanding of those companies is that they are run by engineers on tight budgets and tighter schedules to produce miracles, and Musk is the public face of them.

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I make $143k as a government employee and get 2.5% multuplier for each year served plus 5% 457b match. Family HSA cost $391/mo but employer gives me $5k per year in HSA account.

I also get a $300/mo car allowance, $80/mo cell phone allowance and some other monthly perks along with a $1,000 annual personal computer allowance.

I get 6 weeks of vacation per year, 2 weeks of sick time and if I make it to 14+ years of service I get my Healthcare paid for life until Medicare kicks in.

I have the ability to WFH when needed and have a flexible work schedule.

Maybe I could make $160k in private but I would pay more for healthcare and investments come from that salary rather than my employer paying for it 100%.

Yes public sector is lower, but not by leaps and bounds and the extras pay off. I get discounts on my cell phone bill, have access to a ton of discounts on preferred vendors, etc.

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I took a 3 mo brake from trading and all apps from March to July and have been on fire i highly recommend a hiatus just remove options from your acct w customer service and delete your apps for 2/3 mos its a game changer

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Thanks, but what’s your percentage return on cash invested into the property? Getting a $200/mo cash flow per property can mean anything.

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Trail cameras or piggy back off neighbor's WiFi and throw the neighbor like $10/mo for the trouble.

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I keep any short-/medium-term savings in accounts that guarantee the principal. Whether that is a FDIC-/NCUA-insured bank account, treasury bonds, etc. By the time it goes from an "if" to "when" on my radar, it's somewhere safe. I don't want to find myself in a situation where I "need" the money and don't have it (e.g., the engine in my "fun car" that I'm hoping to last a few years may blow up at the next event).

I don't really waste my time chasing absolute maximum ROI on these savings methods. You really need to do the math and figure out if it's really worth your time. On a $10K balance, a 1% difference in interest is $100/year, or about $8/mo (that's one day you get food at work instead of taking your lunch). Most times, the interest difference isn't anywhere near 1%, so it's even less impactful. If it's a significant difference, I'll consider making a move, otherwise, it's not worth the paperwork.

There is a "hybrid approach" with regard to investing your savings, but included in that is having a "buffer" to cover the historical volatility. For example, if historically, a 30/70 portfolio has a max drawdown of 15%, you save an additional 15% in there to cover any market downturns that might be occurring when you need to withdraw the funds. Personally, I would rather avoid the additional complexity, just save what I need in liquid accounts, and invest any leftover money at my standard AA per my IPS.

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For what it's worth I've been pretty happy with the Google Nest cameras. They run on power or internal battery so they'll still run for a while even if your tenant disconnects the power cable. You can get a cloud subscription that gives you 10 days of 24/7 history for like $10/mo. It can send you alerts when people/animals are detected. For internet maybe consider getting a hot spot and hiding it someplace.

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Start shopping at Aldi if there's one in your area. Aldi food typically has less preservatives. The food usually costs ~70% of what you would spend at Walmart/Kroger/Giant Eagle.

If you don't have an Aldi in your area, here's a few ideas to bring your eating out expenses down:

  1. Most grocery stores have a pre-made food section in their deli. It's cheaper than eating out but more expensive than making it yourself. They usually have subs, chicken tenders, rotisserie chickens, etc.

  2. Stop buying coffee out. Get a coffee pot or French press and make it yourself. Buy a nice coffee and a good creamer. It will be cheaper even if you buy expensive coffee.

  3. Stock up on frozen meals you can toss in the oven or microwave. These aren't the healthiest options, but Trader Joe's often has great frozen meals that are a bit healthier.

As others have said, your bills seem a bit high. I live near Columbus, OH where the COL is higher than average. We probably spend $300/mo eating out and ~$1000/mo on groceries for my family of four.

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I’m in Canada, at an msp that does voip offerings. I’ve personally used ringcentral, grasshopper and a few other “easy do it yourself” providers and vehemently dislike them all. My office uses 3CX for its backend, hosted on aws, and a local provider for trunking. A small business of day four persons runs around $50/mo.

Feel free to dm if you want more info, or look at 3CX’s partner listing.

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I had to put like ~$10-$30k into my first couple of homes. This was back in 2016 and 2018.

Initially, I was receiving $400/mo. and $1000/mo. (in monthly cash)

With the crazy growth, I'm not at $1000/mo. and $1700/mo.

Right now, if I can't get at least $200/mo (VERY MIN) on a SFH, I wouldn't do the deal unless you have great cashflow from other parts of your life.

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Having our own sovereign currency means we can always avoid nominal default. But that's just nominal.

You can still default in real terms. Imagine you owed a retiree $1000/mo in social security payments. Only being able to pay them 600 is a nominal default. We don't have that problem. Instead, we're going to give them $1000 and devalue the currency so that the purchasing power of that 1000 is now only 600. That's a default in real terms.

This is the same concept as with bond holders. If interest payments get too high we'll continue to make good by paying them dollars that are worth less. Bondholders will still take a haircut.

The thing with MMT is that it is focused on money itself. Money is just an abstraction. It represents some unit of productivity. If I imagine a hypothetical unit of productivity to be worth 10 dollars and I promise a bondholder I'll repay their loan at 11 dollars what I'm really promising them (when I took the loan) is 1.1 units of productivity. If I re-price units of productivity (via inflation) so that one unit of productivity is now worth 20 dollars then when I pay the bondholder 11 I'm really only giving them half a unit of productivity. In other words, in real terms you weren't able to pay off the debt.

This is the path the US is on and it's hardly unusual. Hell, we've even done this before if you look at inflation rates in the 40s (because of our war debts) https://www.macrotrends.net/2497/historical-inflation-rate-by-year.

So MMT is not wrong about their description of money it's just that the description isn't valuable. If dollars didn't buy things I wouldn't give two shits about having them because no one cares about money, they care about what money buys. MMT is just the dressed up way of describing how sovereigns can avoid a technical default.

The major issue right now with entitlements is that more promises were made than our productivity can deliver. At the end of the day, the government will continue to cut these folks checks it's just that they'll be able to buy a lot less with them.

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Who wants to die of old age? Fuck that. Give me a supra and a pack a day of some marlboro reds I'm going out early. TM MO NTDOF calls here

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Family of 3, $700/mo for groceries, $1000/mo for entertainment (includes any eating out, alcohol, etc) which I would guess maybe $500-$600 of the $1000/mo goes to food related spending.

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First of all, don't be a jerk

Second of all, different people have different needs, maybe it works for you and those other folks, but not for me

Third of all, as I mentioned in another thread, if I wanted to manually add everything, I could use a spreadsheet like I used to do, and not spend $30/mo on software that doesn't make things easier.

What I found over the years trying to make Quickbooks work for me is that it's not really designed for my kind of business. I imagine that if you're dealing in inventory and repeated customer transactions, where every time you do a job it's either the same, or a collection of things that are the same, QB can probably do what you want.

For me, every job is different, so invoicing, etc., is actually far harder and more time consuming, because for every client I basically have to start over. I'm sure you can see how that would be annoying.

The same is true for my purchasing. I purchase some things over and over, but I get them from different places, or I'm buying off Amazon and the exact name isn't exactly the same.

I think it's also worth noting that I am using the online version of QB, not the standalone. I'm coming to realize (from helpful people who aren't jerks) that that's probably where the delays are coming in. Each time I do a small task, I'm waiting for a connection, screen redraws, and page loads.

I get that nobody owes me a helpful response on here. But being a sarcastic jerk is really a waste of everybody's time. Or maybe you own stock in Intuit, and don't like when someone makes a criticism of one of their products?

Finally, the thing that's wrong with manually categorizing stuff, in addition to above where I could do that in my own spreadsheet, is that all the info is available. Even if this is perfectly serviceable for you, wouldn't it be nice if all the info was right there? Instead of having to jump between different tools/sites/printed lists, or however you check on your transactions? My question was more about whether or not there is a better way, only went down this path because you asserted that I was wrong to want these things or ask for a better way.

Also, really finally, there's no good reason why Quickbooks shouldn't be able to recognize bank transfers as being the same transaction. I panicked one year when all of my transfers were counted as income, and my gross was listed at 3x my actual gross. I believe my bookkeeper fixed that issue, but the problem never should have happened.

Hopefully you can agree that if QB has access to my bank accounts, PayPal, and any other place I get paid, that it should be able to automatically reconcile transfers, especially if the amounts are the same, the transaction number is the same (with accounts from the same bank), and the date is the same.

It seems to me that also there is an opportunity to upgrade all of this in the banking systems. Which is why I was asking if anyone had a better way to do what I want QB to do. The answer could also be "No" that's just how it works. Won't make me happy, but that would at least be addressing my question, and not being unnecessarily snarky.

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All NASDAQ stocks were positive. It is a very rare event. In the the subsequent 6mo 12 mo periods following previous instances, the market has experienced large gains. It does not mean it will happen this but it is something to consider.

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We have a decent chance the bottom was in, mo matter how much always-on-the-sidelines-permabears JUST KNOW we will crash and burn.

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Thanks for the response, I'll set up a spreadsheet and check.

​

>The general rule of thumb is to save 15% of your gross income for retirement.

Going by this we're at ~13% including an employer match, so we'd need to contribute a ~$200/mo more to hit that number.

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Mo

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I realize you track but what's your secret to so little tax? Are you not in the US? Just your payroll taxes should be $700/mo or $800ish if your wife is self employed.

By your chart that leaves $500 to cover federal, state, local taxes and health insurance.

Is this a typo?

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Come on puts fuckin print baby I injected mo cash into my account so I can have over the pattern day trade limit and so far My gains are less but so are my losses

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At a $200k purchase price with 0% down (VA? I hope.) and a 7% rate (rates are currently averaging 6.7% and trending upward so 7% by the time it’s all said and done would be a conservative estimate) would put you at ~$1160/mo spent on just interest on the loan. That’s not touching any principle and you’ve already spent most of your rent payment. Adding in taxes and expected maintenance costs (and HOA?) would put you way over your rent payment. These are all costs that you won’t get back, just like your rent. So whether this flies financially depends entirely on your home appreciating enough to cover the costs to buy and sell plus enough to cover the differential rent that you are paying, which is very much not a safe bet right now.

With a 0% down loan in today’s housing market, there is a very real possibility you won’t be able to move in 5 years because you will be upside down on the loan.

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That depends entirely on what an equivalent property would cost to rent. As an example, here’s my situation:

I’m renting a townhome for $2,300/mo. The exact same model next door sold for $480k a few months ago. At today’s interest rate of 6.8% and 20% down, i would be paying $2,176 in interest alone (no principle!). The HOA on the townhouse is $240, which I would now have to pay myself. So just the interest and HOA are more than the rent. Now add in taxes, insurance, maintenance, and lost return on my down payment and I’m several hundred dollars in the hole before I get even $.01 of saved equity. Buying would be throwing money away.

You need to do the math in your area for equivalent (or acceptable) living arrangements.

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I loaded up on MO, BTI, and PM. Big tabacco for all you stressed fuckers

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I sold my puts and bought GEO, MO, and PM.

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$1,500/mo is great but if it took five years to get there, I'd check how scalable this business is vs time spent.

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A ~$15/mo QuickBooks subscription will allow you to do yourself what the CPA wants $1000 for. But yes, you need to start paying quarterly taxes. You likely already owe tens of thousands of dollars. Don’t worry about penalties (the IRS will let you know if there are any), but at least catch up. Putting it off is making it nothing but worse.

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T-Bills, you can earn 3.8% on a 6-mo T-Bill that is exempt from state and local taxes.

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Sometimes the structure of the plan helps monetize as well. Eg: first month free then billed annually afterward, keeping the price low (say 2.99/mo billed at 29.99/ year) can inspire more volume. Then it just becomes about getting the word out there to grow your user base. Sounds like you got a good thing going! Just refine things a bit and grow and you’ll be able to make it a full time focus soon

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Spy put Three, six, nine, damn, she fine. Hopin' she can sock it to me one mo' time. Get low (get low), get low (get low). Get low (get low), get low.

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EVERY bank is going to have a risk model attached to their remote deposit. MOST banks are going to have one that's dynamic and will adjust to account behavior to include things like account age, average daily balance compared to check deposits, NSF history, deposit charge back history, etc.

Some banks will use as long as a 6 mo rolling history, meaning if you have an NSF today it can affect quick access to deposits for up to 180 days.

In short, there's not really such a thing as "fastest" bank for this. Their goal is to balance account holder convenience with their exposure to risk of uncollected funds from a deposit.

Open an account, keep it in good standing, don't fuck around w NSF's and such, and in time you'll start having your funds pretty close to real time on deposit.

Good luck!

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People are saying $1400 would be liberal (USDA) and probably a little high (especially if you’re not hcol) but I say it’s certainly high given you don’t have 4 adults nor is it like you have 2 teenagers either.

But what I was going to add is you are really overspending at $1400/mo in groceries since you’re ALSO spending ~$325 a week eating out. What I mean by that isn’t the sum of them, which yes ~3k is absurd, but the fact you’re spending $1400 for not even a full week of meals since you clearly do a lot of eating out. Considering you have a 1 & 4yr old is probably about 4 maybe 5 dine out experiences a week unless you’re constantly balling out.

If you’re averaging ~4 family meals out a week how’re are you spending $1400 on groceries after that? Are you throwing tons of food away? I’m actually confused on how you spend this much?

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I’m looking at long calls or leaps on MO. Juul is staring at bankruptcy and Altria just ended that non-compete agreement. Looks like a buyout. 3/17 $30 strike for $13.

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They haven’t started selling at a loss yet but the inventory is going up fast.

People panic ordered (which exacerbated the supply chain problems) and now the orders are getting fulfilled.

The panic selling hasn’t started yet but it should soon enough. Have you see lowes and Home Depot stores with inventory get shoved anywhere they can put it. Lowes has a lot of appliances on sale for about 60% of MSRP.

I know of several important commodity suppliers that have seen their 6 mo forecast fall to basically zero.

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6-9 months in carrying costs per property is wayyyyy overkill imo. At a $2k/mo mortgage for 5 properties you're keeping back 90k just for that. You would also then be keeping back some for unexpected repairs, vacancy, etc. Which would easily put you over 100k for 5 houses. You are mitigating risk at 5 properties because you will most likely never have all 5 vacant and it should never take you more than a month or so to find a new tenant.

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I just got a 4% 9 mo cd at JPM.

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At 30 years of age it's basically over.

Also it's going to take far too long for you to save any capital. At saving $3k/mo, it might take you 3, or even 4, additional months to save the sort of capital you are after. Hell, a whole heap of your friends will be likely starting to retire by then.

I'm sorry OP...

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Will definitely try and figure out something to do with SNAP I'm based here in MO and not sure if we have the same kinda thing here.

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I'm not sure you're getting it. Let's say you make 12k / yr, you're not eligible for subsidies. In 11 states that haven't expanded medicaid you're also not eligible for medicaid. Literally your only option is to buy health insurance off the exchange at full price, which is ~ 450 / mo. Your max OOP costs are also ~ 9k / yr. You're completely fucked no matter which way you slice it.

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The important question here is how much is the car note? Car notes are pretty high right now whether you buy or lease. I believe Dave Ramsey recommends not paying more than 25% of your monthly income on “things with motors”. Assuming you make $60k gross, that puts you at roughly $3350/mo net. 3350x.25=$837.50. Factoring in gas ($75/week) and insurance ($150/mo) your car payment should be roughly $387.50. You can be sure this is a proportionally appropriate payment for your current income (assuming you maintain employment, live in the US, drive to work a few days a week, have no driving record, etc) This will get you a perfectly functioning car that will be covered by manufacturers warranties and dealership insurance if you choose to lease or buy. While I consider Dave Ramsey to be a “financial purist”, his goalposts have served me very well when contributing to retirement, affording a car note, paying off debts, etc. and I feel they may do the same for you.

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The best agencies specialize. My company focuses on 3 things: SEO, SEM & Website design. If a prospects needs/goals don't fall within that wheelhouse, we pass on the project.

No one is really going to be able to make a referral without knowing more about what you are trying to achieve. All you've said is that it's a 'B2B service'. That could mean a LOT of things.

You said you just launched a site - so now you're looking to drive traffic to it? Or do you capture leads some other way? How did you grow your business to this point?

So my advice is to tell us more about your project. Do you have a project brief you can share? That'd be a good first step. A $50k/mo budget will allow you to do a lot of things - but you still want to spend your money intelligently. Hard to do that though without some more details.

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Google nerdwallet rent vs buy calculator

adjust the interest rate, tax rate, HOA, property tax, expected appreciation (low, in this economy) to fit your situation and then see what the curves tell you. Probably, renting is cheaper than buying in your circumstance, assuming you are comparing the same size rental to the same size house, and your rent is only $667/mo.

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Mo money, mo Pokemon cards.

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Credit Karma doesn't lend it out, a few sleezy banks do. $2k loan will be at about 65% APR for 48mo and $168/mo. If OP has any brain cells left he'd pay that back ASAP and not pay any attention to the monthly...

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mo

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mo ass?

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Not sure what state your in.

But in MO

https://www.mohousingresources.com/safhr

I have a couple of tenants who haven’t paid rent themselves in over a year.

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just be a squatter like the rest of the losers that get free ARP money for mo reason!

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Keep in mind that a lot of gains have been made over the past couple of years especially on the lower end of the wage scale. Many metro areas are finally starting to raise wages for all sorts of roles to a minimum of $15, with some retailers increasing the wage all the way up to $24/hour.

If you were spending $500/mo in food and now you're spending $650/mo (30% increase), but your paycheck went from $1333/mo ($8/hour) to $2,500/mo ($15/hour), you've seen an 88% increase in your wages and so you still end up with more money in your pocket even after buying the same groceries.

For some renters, the unfortunate thing about this is that certain property managers have figured this out too and have raised rents to match these new increases, which ultimately hobbles the benefit of having a higher wage to begin with.

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My offroad Can Am is $470/mo but im a year ahead of the payments

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450/mo for a 2 series in my area 550 for a 3

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You can't directly contribute to your Solo 401K from your taxable brokerage account. The 401K account must be funded with income, and there are annual limits to how much you can contribute.

The way you get around this is to divert the necessary income into your 401K and live off the balance of your taxable account. For example, instead of taking $1500/mo in income every month, you invest that money into your 401K, and you withdraw $1500/mo from your taxable account. At the end of the day, your bills are paid, and your 401K is funded.

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mememeeee mo mo mo

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You have dirt cheap rent. Rent in our area was $1500 for a 2x2. 2500 sq ft house is $2k/mo with a low rate.

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You can sell treasuries at any time. There will be some pricing risk depending on how long you go, but sticking with 6 mo - 2 years won't have a ton.

So there is an added layer of steps, but you're also earning much more at the moment.

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>coming out at 13.5k a year interest on my loan amount

Your interest paid goes down over the term of the loan. In the early part of the loan, you pay more interest, but near the end you pay very little interest.

If you're going to compare the cost of renting to the cost of buying, you have to compare over similar terms: $8k per month over 30 years is $2.88M. And that $2.88M is a straight up expense.

If you have $8k/mo to allocate to housing, you could take out a 30 -year mortgage for $1M at 6%, have a monthly payment of $6,874.67 (leaving some wiggle room for repairs, insurance, and property taxes), and your interest expense would only be $1,158,382 over the term of the loan. That works out to an average of about $3,218/mo. The rest of your housing budget would go towards paying down the loan principal, leaving you with equity in your home.

Your thinking is correct that interest is an expense, but rent is 100% expense. That said, there are markets where it makes more sense to rent than to buy. For example, if you have an $8k housing budget, but comparable housing in your area is all $1M, then you'd have a hard time buying a home and making it work on your budget.

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If you sell your house you will be homeless. You will not be able to rent a place for that low, you will not buy another house with that small of a payment. The move alone would cost you way more than you would save. Think about deposits, moving expenses. It costs a lot to move, even yourself.

Your house is the only thing saving you from a really bad situation right now.

you need to start tracking your every dollar. Bringing in 2600/mo with a 1k mortgage isnt that bad.

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Plenty of good advice here, but I want to reiterate: do not sell your house. Rent is crazy everywhere, and is only going to get worse. So many investors bought houses during the housing boom the last couple of years in order to rent them out-- not good for renters as these houses were up 30-40% in value. Rents will have to increase in order for them to profit. I don't know where you live, but I travel for work and am lucky to find a 1 bedroom apartment for $1000/mo in even LCOL cities.

Can you rent out a room in your house?

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Thank you for this figure, someone else says ~1650/mo so this is really great to see some consistency across the board. Not sure how things will be in 1, 1.5, 2yrs though it's really great to have a ballpark so, again, thank you. Availability around our area is apparently constantly in flux so I appreciate the additional "get on the ball" advice.

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>Currently I have about 7800$ in QYOU. It is down to 2400$ :(( I believe that it will grow back stronger in the near future.

You can read about the results of individual stocks (especially penny stocks like this) vs. indexes, or I can just skip to the end for you: That money would be better off in an index, for the future, if and only if you can wait at least 20 years to use the money. If not, you shouldn't be in stocks, and you should instead put your money in either a high yield savings account (Wealthfront currently yields 2.55%), treasuries (which can be bought in the bonds section of most brokers, yielding between 3 and 4.5% or so), or I bonds on treasurydirect (currently yielding 9.62% for the next 6 months, but you'll need to read up on their particular qualities/restrictions).

At your age, since you have no money, and you will have expenses in the future, your move is not to invest but to stack up a sizeable emergency fund + savings fund (for, say, a down payment on a house), so that once you have a big stack of cash, you will feel comfortable to deal with the fluctuations of the stock market. Bad advice is given to young people all the time to go all in as young as possible -- while in theory that could make sense, in actual practice, young people do need to save a decent amount of cash first to set their lives up. But if mom and dad pay for all expenses and are willing to let you live with them forever, and you find your home tolerable, then yeah, you could just start investing everything immediately.

So a few more things based on what you said, which you need to know at your age.

>Get into law school (Corp law work seems intriguing to me)

Be extremely careful about this. The cost of most professional schooling -- law, medicine, etc. -- is extremely high, and it's funded with unsecured debt. Again, you could read a bunch of materials about this, and logic it all out for yourself, but I will again skip to the end for you: Don't get into any form of debt. In the same way that investing as early as possible exponentially helps you, getting into debt as early as possible exponentially harms you. Do not do any form of schooling that requires debt. If you keep that as iron law, you will make out way better than 90-95% of your peers even on a mere fraction of a lawyer's salary.

>Have 110k for mortgage at 21

I do not see how you're going to accomplish this making $480/mo. Now, if you decided not to go to college and work instead, I think you could get very close, and if you started right now, you probably could accomplish it (assuming with a full time wage you'd make ~20k after tax for 5 years, living with mom and dad, and so it's all pure cash flow into your pocket).

>To create cash flow when older

Hey, that can start right now. Young people don't realize how advantageous their position is. No rent. No real expenses, except the ones you impose on yourself. Simply just buy virtually nothing. Work as much as you can. Save all the money you can. Decide on prioritizing saving for a home or investing -- you don't get to have your cake and eat it too, here; focus on one thing at a time. You have no idea how good you can have it if you're willing to put your head down for even 4-5 years at your age. You just have to have the fortitude to tune out the noise of people telling you to do things that won't directly benefit you.

>buy a Porsche 964 and cruise in the sunset with a hot wife

Teenager check. Understandable, but this kind of stuff isn't likely to matter as much to you when you're older. It's also interestingly coincidental that these two get placed against each other. Cars are some of the most expensive depreciating assets men buy. And as for women, well, you should talk to some older, more experienced men about that.

>obviously, retire at some point before 50

I think this is fully doable from where you're standing. To even be on this board at your age puts you at a huge advantage. You're going to learn a lot that will actually help you win in life on the financial subs, but it's all really simple: Don't get into debt. Stack cash -- overdo it even, to make sure you feel safe and comfortable before investing, so that when you invest, you never get scared out of the market. Budget your expenses, and keep them extremely low. Get the highest income for the lowest amount of schooling/work as possible. Get to work and earn money as soon as possible -- every dollar you make at 16 can be worth up to 10 dollars in real, inflation-adjusted terms at 50, if it is invested correctly. And finally, invest everything you can, as soon as possible, in a broad based total world or total US stock index fund. That's it. That's all there is to it.

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stealing value from his shareholders is his MO

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Sell the house. Pay off your debts. Have cash reserves and money for a new down payment. Go back to school or training to earn more. Might be time to move away if you don’t have those kinds of opportunities where you’re at but now you have cash to do so. Your GF has to step up. Can’t make 500-700/ mo. Plenty of jobs of low skill jobs out there pay way more than that.

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Self checkout at the grocery store is a little different. At a fast casual place, I have mo problem ordering at a screen over going to a person. At the grocery store I have to deal with it constantly thinking I'm stealing, waiting to flag down the one person working to fix something, etc. If there's an open cashier, I'll choose that.

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Can you, or are you willing to rent a room? It doesn't have to be airbnb, but something longer term, like 1 year or 6 mo lease. My elderly neighbor a few doors down rents a room out to some college kid who rarely leaves his room when home. He pays 400 a month, plus 1/3 of utilities, and mows her lawn.

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The only thing that has much of a material impact is if you plan to put your kids in daycare or if someone is going to be a stay at home parent.

All of the clothes/toys/cribs etc should be bought second hand or as gifts from grandparents etc. They can be cheap to begin with and can be handed down to future kids.

Safety items such as a carseat should be bought new but are a one-time expense that last years and multiple kids (if that's your plan).

Formula isn't too bad unless you require something specialty (which you can't know in advance).

We pay $225/week/child for daycare. Everything else maybe adds up to $200-$300/mo for kids under 2, which includes formula.

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Family of 3 on T-mobile for $90/mo. We were paying $160/mo for the 3 of us, and with money getting tighter we had to do something. This freed up $70/mo for us.

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I mean, my payment is $230/mo but with insurance $120/mo and gas $50/mo it gets to $500 real quick, even before maintenance

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Property tax is dependent on your home’s value and the rate varies a lot by location. You can look up the local tax assessment records in the areas you’re thinking about buying in and see what the tax bills are for the types of properties you’d be interested in. PMI varies a lot based on your financial situation and credit score too. Same for HOA, can be anything from $50 to thousands a month. The calculators on Zillow and Redfin will estimate things like property tax, HOA, and PMI and give you a better idea than a calculator that just does principal and interest. Should get you a ballpark idea of monthly payment, the actual is likely to be + or - a few hundred.

FYI, PMI isn’t usually a huge deal if you have good credit. Ours is $45 a mo on a $250k loan. Don’t be tempted to dip into emergency funds to put down more than you can afford just to eliminate PMI - not worth it.

Also keep in mind 18 months is a LONG time and the world is very uncertain right now. Literally anything could happen with the job market, the housing market and interest rates in that time. At this point I’d just focus on building up liquid savings for your down payment, making sure your credit is in order, and career growth/stability. Put yourself in the best financial position possible and worry about the specifics when you’re 1-2 months out from purchasing. A loan officer will tell you the maximum you can afford during pre-approval, and you can decide how much you’re comfortable with from there.

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Refinance is pretty much out of the question. If I were in your situation I would:

  1. Put 110% time and effort into your business. Nothing beats quick cash!

  2. Call and get ICR on student loans, I would NOT be making payments on them at this time.

  3. Call utility company and ask for budget billing.

  4. Call credit card company after maxed out and tell them you're unable to pay. You can do $25/mo

  5. No more sandwiches. Big bag of rice and beans, that would be my diet for the next 30 fucking days.

  6. You cannot find a rental or alternative living situation for less than you are paying now.

  7. Turn off overdraft protection on your bank accounts, the fees will bleed you dry.

  8. Learn your lesson. You have over 100K in equity in your home, never ever ever pay off your house or make it your main goal. You could have tapped into that equity when you had a good high paying job and been able to scrape by on that alone with monthly payments. We are too young to be "debt free", Dave Ramsey is not always right.

Once you have ran out of options, 2nd job, side hustle, your business etc.,then you file for Chapter 7 to get an automatic stay on your house so you don't get foreclosed on. We knew this day was coming, it will only get worse from here unless you can get your head above water now. The time to take action is NOW.

Been there and done that. I didn't like the situation I was in, so I got 2 FT jobs. I worked 72 hours per week, had every Thursday off and sold everything that had a payment attached to it. Took my monthly car payment amounts and bought an $800.00 Stratus that worked for a year. You can do it if you're devoted to making it happen.

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It would seem that if OP’s gf got a ft fast food job she’d be adding another $1k+/mo which would make all the difference

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Immediate things that are needed:

  1. Get health insurance, because you get taxed for not having it. Go for the HSA option - those are pre-tax dollars that can also be used on most OTC stuff like Nyquil.
  2. Cut up the credit card. You're not good with controlling your spending and now it's a liability that's costing you more.
  3. Stop going to the chiropractor. Get a lacrosse ball and do some guided stretches instead. If you sit at a desk, get a posture corrector to keep yourself from hunching over. ^(I'm in my 30s working out regularly, and even I hardly, if ever, go to the chiropractor.)

Other things:

  1. Identify where your $1000 is going. That's too big of a number to not know wtf it's attributed to. At least $400 should be allocated to only groceries.
  2. Download Mint and use the budgeting tool to manage your money.

​

After that, based on some extra wiggle room added on top of your listed bills, you've spent $1950/mo (excluding insurance). Your monthly income may actually closer to $2600 based on your annual, so set aside anything over that for your taxes. Set aside $200/mo to start building up a $1k emergency fund while also using $200+ to pay off your credit card. Utilize anything you have leftover for whatever else might not be covered, but you need to live very tightly until that credit card is paid off. Cheap, yet nice-ish furniture can be found on Facebook marketplace when you're able to afford it.

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OP, like many others have said here. Not much can be said above "Make more money" and "spend less money" unless you're willing to disclose to us a breakdown of your budget and expenses.

How much are you paying on CC debt? How much are you paying on student loans? How much are specific utilities? Phone bill? Internet? Any subscriptions? Cost of food? Transportation?

It looks like you take in $2600/mo and take out $1000 mortgage + X utilities + $1500 "other".

Is your GF contributing in anyway other than groceries? Your post seems to indicate you are taking on a house/loans/debt + a "dependent" - we'll also need a breakdown of her situation.

Judging by this post there is not a lot for us to work with. Roommate is by far your best choice if you were to maintain status quo and living day to day. It seems like at this point one disaster/emergency take you underwater.

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Yeah OP seems to have $2600 coming in and $2500 going out each month

I’m no math wizard but that sounds like there’s $100 left

OP’s girlfriend buys groceries, so that’s the mortgage, bulls, and groceries covered with at least $100 left over and unless the girlfriend is literally earning $500/mo then I doubt her entire income goes on groceries?

Plus maybe this is my non-US perspective but $1500 in bills seems high - our mortgage is £1000 with another £900 in other bills/fixed spending and we could cut another £200 off that if necessary, even before considering the fact that UK electricity costs have roughly doubled in the last year due to the Ukraine situation

OP needs to run a full budget including both incomes

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Would you be able to rent out a room or two in your home? That could help pay the mortgage AND help someone in a similar situation with reasonable rent. I’d aim to charge about half of what an average one-bedroom apartment goes for for each room, so if rents are around $1500/mo you could easily charge $800 for each room (assuming you have three bedrooms) and make an extra $1600/mo which should pay mortgage + utilities)

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Still on trend for bull market looking at 1 mo - 1 year charts tho

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> I actually dont know this. I dont understand why new people keep investing and losing money but dont try or think of changing the way they invest. Is it because of greed or being addicted?

Generally it is because short term returns don't matter much. I've been investing for decades into declining assets. Momentum is real, they more often than not keep declining after I buy. Sure sometimes I catch bottoms but the first 3 mo I'm almost always red on new positions. 4 years later I'm way ahead since I "caught the falling knife" and got a great price. Buying in at say 70% of what I would have paid when momentum returns is worth an extra 3.6% per year every year for a decade.

https://www.reddit.com/r/IncomeInvesting/comments/vh3bz0/dividends_always_win/

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The MO Ass everyone was waiting for imgimgimgimgimg

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So, basically if someone steals my check with it's MICR and all, and forges my signature, how would your bank detect that by looking at it? If they call my bank, they'll say "Yup, Kingghoti's account has funds to cover that."

Admittedly that's not the most common scammer MO, but assuming the scammer can counterfeit some business or other victim's account number on bona fide check stock with MICR encoding, then how does the bank tell before it's deposited?

You are no doubt right in that 99% of the time, with a scammer using a physical check, it'll be dodgy looking check stock, etc. Invalid account number, etc. So great job training the tellers to intercept the obvious scammy ones!

ThankS!

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My thoughts too, lot of room for improvement there.

My SO and I budget our $200/mo for groceries and $100 for eating out, and we do pretty good. Absolutely manageable.

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> People said divident King MO at 50 (7.5% divident) was great. Now it's at 40.

I love when people consistently use the Middle English variant of a word in financial discussions.

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The big question you are going to have at $6500/mo is whether you expect social security to be there in 25 years. A lot of people will tell you to assume it won't. That's the conservative approach and you should save as if it won't.

Using this and a simple assumption of 6% return after inflation, plus the 4% drawdown assumption (meaning you need $1950000 in 25 years) then you need to save about $2000/mo now to have $6500/mo available in retirement.

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FYI—we took a qb capital loan last year to float some things. Worked out great. Easy. We found after the funds were secured that they calculate interest daily, not monthly. And that by making bimonthly payments we could get it down a little further, thereby saving ourselves a very little bit of cash because the balance was always just a bit lower than planned. So the interest assessed was on a lower amount. I think our payment was about $6500/mo at eom, and so what I did was arrange it to pay 3300(instead of 3250) on the 15th and 30th. By my math, this saved me nearly $2k in cost.

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Because it is. People though Intel at 40 (long term support) was great and at 30 (5 years low) was a steal. Now is at 26.

People said META at 150 was a steal. Now its at 136

People said divident King MO at 50 (7.5% divident) was great. Now it's at 40.

In bear markets everytime you think atock is trading at great price it's almost guarantee that will trade lower few weeks later.

And you though you bought at great price and suddenly you become a bagholder.

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Not misleading for me. Last year I was paying $150/mo and now I’m paying $300/mo. 2k sqft home

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https://dqydj.com/sp-500-periodic-reinvestment-calculator-dividends/

$11.6k/mo (43 months from March 2019 to now)

3.2%

you'd have 1400 SPY shares with a cost average of like $349

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  • Get more precise spending and income figures.
    • Your take-home estimate of $3,000/mo., assuming no paycheck deductions, equates to income tax of ~6.7% which means you're either overestimating your income or will likely owe taxes come March.
    • Groceries and fun spending needs to be expanded upon. That's a huge chunk of your spending that remains uncategorized. Use Mint or a similar tool to get an initial estimate.
  • Your rent is not indicative of a LCOL city. Right now you're over the 30% rule of thumb, which means you're either renting too much apartment or live in a more expensive area than you're letting on. Consider getting a roommate.
  • Any leftover money you have right now should go to your credit card payment, not savings. Once that's paid off, then you can focus on saving.
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We are currently renting out a room from some family for about 400/mo. But the situation is temporary and we might have to leave after the new year

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> Aapl, Googl, Amzn, Fb, Meta, Tsla, Msft, apd, Avgo, Xom, Abbv, Oke, Epd, MO, Lmt, Pru, Ibm, HD, Mmm, Pep, Txn Whr, Ups, Trow, Afl, Tgt, Amgn, Sbux, SWK, Blk

Too many stocks, overdiversified but acceptable horrible economic conditions and individual binary events (earning reports).

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$100/mo for $2500/mo rental is a pretty good price. Many places charge 10% or $250/mo PLUS one months rent for placement.

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No one’s going to rate match something from 3 months ago, to the extent they’d ever even do that at all. They’ll usually just say, “sorry, we can’t beat that”.

Keep in mind you’re not talking about a ton of money. The difference between financing $40K at 3.5% for 60 months and 2.5% is $18/mo.

Not nothing, but not life altering either.

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Recent Tweets
$MO - https://t.co/nXo2GWxq1s - Tracking William Nygren's Harris Associates Portfolio - Q2 2022 Update
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$MO Everyone is Buying the Dip Right Now.Hoarding Shares:~ https://t.co/TfqdLtCHn4
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Time for alcohol 🥃… nice breakout in $MO that was easy play, $UTSL set up nice here. #moneyflowgang https://t.co/Q08R0vBYt3
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Here we go! Juul moves to enter financing talks for potential bankruptcy https://t.co/ms1I9mBxFs Juul engaged in informal talks regarding debtor-in-possession financing (funding for a potential Chapter 11 bankruptcy) Juul was valued at its peak at $38Bn... $pm $bti $bats $mo
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PMI expects EU approval on SWMA acquisition in late Oct as it extends the acceptance period for its offer to Nov 4 https://t.co/AV0Jhw6hUZ The extension of the EU's review from its scheduled Oct 11 deadline could suggest that PMI may have to offer remedies $pm $bti $bats $mo
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Juul Labs is reportedly preparing for a potential chapter 11 bankruptcy filing $MO https://t.co/y062N1ZEHG
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Watch $mo 1otm p if news true Not great source but if true huge move IF TRUE …IF NOT NO play
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PMI asks US appeals court to overturn import ban on IQOS https://t.co/hBLiBriQjg Judges are skeptical of PMI's argument that the ITC should have consulted more with the FDA before handing down the ban $pm $bti $bats $mo
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I love going through old stock manuals like Moody's Handbook of Common Stocks I found Phillip Morris $MO grew earnings per share 17 fold between 1961-80 Dividends grew by a factor of 8, roughly in line with the rise in the share price The number of shares increased https://t.co/81boXCzN8d
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A personal milestone dividend investors will understand. Today marks 9 years since I stopped being a customer of $MO! I have not bought or used any of their products since 9 years ago today. Much better to be a shareholder of this one than a customer!
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I follow a lot of dividend investors … for those of you buying $MO, why? Don’t tell me because the divi yield is over 8% … it is a loser of a stock, down huge over the last 5 years. Terrible company. Ok, your turn … those of you buying, because I know you’re out there, why!?! https://t.co/ox6c5rROV8
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DRIP & Chill With Some of These Dividend Names💰 $ABBV AbbVie $KO Coca-Cola $MO Altria Group $SBUX Starbucks $MCD McDonald’s $DG Dollar General $CAH Cardinal Health $LMT Lockheed Martin $TXN Texas Instruments $SPG Simon Property Group What are some of your favorites?
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12 Dividend Kings👑 $TGT Target $ABT Abbott $PEP PepsiCo $ABBV AbbVie $KO Coca-Cola $MO Altria Group $FRT Federal Realty $LEG Leggett & Platt $KMB Kimberly-Clark $PG Procter & Gamble $CL Colgate-Palmolive $JNJ Johnson & Johnson Do you hold any of these Kings?
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